We left off last time reflecting on the trip so far as we settled into our 5 hour high-speed run down from Paris to the Mediterranean port of Toulon. So far, aside from a slight panic in Paris, things were going smoothly. The SNCF train we were on was spacious and comfortable although being on the bottom deck meant the headroom was tight for someone who is 6ft 2in. There is also a lot of concentration needed ascending and descending the stairs when moving at such high speeds.
It didn’t feel like that long when we were pulling into Toulon station and thankfully two assistants were on hand to meet us and help Kath with the luggage. They expertly weaved their way through the crowds on the platform and into the main concourse. Here, we checked the best way to the port and decided to opt for the 5 minute taxi ride over the 30+ minute walk with heavy suitcases, an extremely overwhelmed 10 year old and this blind bloke. It was lucky we did because it gave us plenty of time to grab a bite to eat at one of the little bistros one the quay and, of course, as we were in France we just had to try the Italian place (this is what happens when you have two autistic children, one of whom has an extremely limited palate).
To board the ferry as a foot passenger, you have to go up two extremely steep and narrow escalators. One of the crew clocked my white cane and signalled up to the landing so someone was on hand to support me off and on to the next flight, where they did the same for the top. All the ferry crew were great, helping us find our cabins (which, of course, were at opposite ends of the boat!) before leaving us to settle in. We couldn’t believe how busy the ferry was with what seemed like every spare inch of carpet being reserved with a rolled up sleeping bag or such like, not unlike the sun loungers around the pool of a Benidorm hotel. We felt extremely blessed to have a cabin to ourselves and were immensely grateful to Byway for using their expertise to plan for this, meaning we arrived in Ajaccio refreshed and ready for the first proper day of our holiday.
The early morning sun was high in a cloudless sky as we docked and it was expected to be another scorcher with the mercury reaching above 30 degrees. Looking at the map, it seemed to only be just over a kilometre around the bay to the hotel but even so, we once again opted for the convenience of a taxi rather than dragging luggage and children on an early morning hike meaning we arrived at the hotel in time for breakfast!
Ajaccio is one of those old mediterranean cities with so much to explore and over the next few days we set about investigating the sights; including the historic citadel on the point which was the original island prison and it is quite clear that the place has been left to go to ruin over the years. Now work is underway to turn it into a cultural hub with art exhibitions, a small museum and some small independent shops and cafes.
One of the main historic events Ajaccio is famous for is it being the birthplace of Napoleon Bonapart and his childhood home, not far from the harbour, is open to explore. For my eldest, Kira, (who is a massive history buff) being able to visit the place where such an important figure spent his early years was a dream come true. William, on the other hand, wasn’t so impressed meaning he and I took the express tour around the house whilst the two ladies followed us at a much more sedate pace.
Exploring any new place is fraught with anxiety when you are disabled (especially when in a foreign country and you don’t know the language) but typically people are understanding of your needs and will try to help when needed. Of course, being with Kath and the family meant someone was never far away if I got into trouble or needed a little help (although there were a couple of times when I was wondering along unaware they had stopped further back to look in a shop window) but that’s nothing new.
As well as exploring the city, we really wanted to see more of the island so decided to take a boat trip up the coast to the Scandola nature reserve which is only accessible from the water. I think we took the crew by surprise when we boarded and they saw my cane, but if they had concerns, they didn’t show them and made sure people were around to ensure I made it up the gang plank without missing my footing. It was an exhausting and fascinating day in equal measure with the hum of the engines making for significant sensory overload but to see these amazing rock formations first-hand and to watch the captain expertly navigate the treacherous waters with many hidden dangers made it worth it. I am sure the woman explaining the sights would have been fascinating if only any of us could understand a word of French!
After a scorching day on the water, there is nothing better than to cool off in the pool before grabbing some dinner. What was great was that the hotel had provided us with fully self-contained apartment meaning when the kids were overwhelmed, we could simply cook and sit around the dining table playing cards which, especially after such busy days exploring, was a welcome relief for us all.
We had such an amazing and accessible time on the island and much of that is thanks to the support and preparations done by the team at Byway. With such a wonderful experience we just couldn’t wait for our homeward adventure which consisted of a train ride across the island, a daytime ferry across to Nice and finishing on celebrating William’s birthday in Paris. All that is to come in the next chapter.
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Blind Man with a Backpack 